A Christmas winter escape had been at the top of our bucket list since moving to the UK (in NZ it is summer through Christmas) so with this we had our hearts set on chasing the snow with a European Road Trip!
Every City we visited through this trip was home to it’s own Christmas spirit, filled with mulled wine, fairy lights and of course SNOW.. snow much snow! Here we share our week long itinerary of the merriest destinations we covered on our road trip through Slovenia and Austria (Christmas 2018)
Our Itinerary
DAY 1: Ljubljana (1 night)
DAY 2: Jamnik Church & Lake Bled (1 night)
DAY 3-4: Innsbruck (2 night)
DAY 5-6: Salzburg (2 nights)
DAY 7: Hallstatt (1 night)
DAY 8: Vienna (1 night)
DAY 9: Drive to Ljubljana & Head home
Day 1:
Ljubljana, Slovenia
We decided to start in the quaint and uber cute capital of Slovenia, Ljubljana. We found this was the cheapest to get to and easiest starting point for us with flights arriving directly in from London each day at a reasonable price.
Rental Car: Picked up our rental car through Atet Rental from the airport and started our 20-minute journey to our Airbnb in the city centre.
Accommodation: Our air bnb was extremely basic, (see for yourself here) but we weren’t fussed especially with the price only coming to £20 a night, who can complain! We were located so close to the city (literally 3-minute walk) which was ideal for us as had only set aside 1 full day here!
What we got up to:
Our favourite part of the morning was just walking along the river, stopping off for a hot chocolate (which was literally melted chocolate over here!!) and exploring the town at our own pace filling the camera up with snaps. *Also, great photo opp along the river with all the colourful houses.
We started our morning in the heart of this city for a 2 hour walking tour of the capital which you can book here. This followed with our top visits:
- The Preseren Square – Our starting point was vibrant and lively with Christmas decorations all set up and a charming salmon pink church overlooking the square. Here we discovered the famous Poet France Preseren’s monument which looks towards a window bay where his adored love of his life used to live, talk about romantic! See if you can spot her from the monument.
- The Triple Bridge – This is attached to the city square and being Pedestrian only access allows you to take the most of this picturesque point. Here it is in the above photo (well one of the three bridges). It not only looks onto the church but runs across the riverbed and is filled with performers adding to the vibrant atmosphere. It is one of the most beautiful sights of the town. We walked over this several times throughout our day.
- Central Market – Just a short walk from the square you will see where all the locals are. This is a great place to stop over if you want to buy some of the local produce (so fresh), farmer’s products and grab a bite to eat! This is a mix of produce and market stalls – we purchased a pair of gloves as came very unprepared for the winter weather and my fingers were frozen!
- It is also worth checking out the below which is all within walking distance:
- Dragon Bridge
- Ljubljana Cathedral
- Ljubljana University
- Ljubljana Library
.Our favourite part of the morning was just walking along the river, stopping off for a hot chocolate (which was literally melted chocolate over here!!) and exploring the town at our own pace filling the camera up with snaps. *Also, great photo opp along the river with all the colourful houses.
Ljubljana Castle
The afternoon was spent making our way up to the medieval fortress, Ljubljana Castle. We took the funicular up (Rather than by foot as were a bit stretched for time) which took us up to the top of the hill approx 60 meters above the Old Town for 10 Euro. The castle is fully restored and has so many unique activities to do here – we had a look at a couple exhibitions, the puppet museum, and climbed the tower which offered the spectacular views of the City.
Ljubljana by night
Night time in this quaint Capital is truly something special – after a day keeping ourselves busy we had a relaxing evening spent walking along the riverside, strolling through the old town, listening to music and enjoying the Christmas Spirit which filled the streets more and more as the night went on. They had a Christmas market in the middle of the square where we ate traditional Slovenian food for dinner and sipped on mulled wine to help keep us warm before heading back to our cosy airbnb. Perfect end to our first night on our 10 day trip.
Day 2:
Lake Bled via Jamnik Church
Jamnik Church
Drive Time: 50 Minutes (Ljubljana to Jamnik) & 35 Minutes (Jamnik to Lake Bled)
Today we were heading to the famous Lake Bled. On route we decided to make a detour through the beautiful Slovenia mountains with a stopover in the little village of Jamnik to check out the Church of St Primoz. The drive was incredibly scenic and a real highlight for us as we drove though tiny mountain villages ad saw our first glimpse of snow.
You cannot drive out to the church as this is all farm land so when you arrive close you will find a parking bay at the top of the mountain road and can then take a 10 minute walk along the hill where you will find the elegant little church perched on the hillside on the Jelovica Plateau with one amazing setting – the Kamik Alps and Storzic Mountain sets in the background offering an incredible panoramic view.
Lake Bled
Drive Time: 50 Minutes (Ljubljana to Jamnik) & 35 Minutes (Jamnik to Lake Bled)
All the photos and blogs we had read/seen on Lake Bled we all based in the summer time so we didn’t really know what to expect arriving in the middle of winter but plased to say it did not disappoint.
Accommodation: We stayed here which came to £42 per night and was bang smack on the lake, perfect location and cheap which we love! If we had a bit more money to spend on accommodation I would love to stay at one of the many beautiful hotels on the lake – just be prepared to book in advance if you are coming for Summer or Christmas as this is a tourist hotspot in Europe now.
What we got up to/Where to eat:
Lake Bled Castle: After a stroll along the Lake we ventured up the hill towards the iconic Lake Bled Castle. The walk takes approx 10-15 mins but you can also walk up if you are wanting to drive. When you reach the castle you will find a ticket window – prices came to 11 euro per ticket and were well worth paying for just the views alone.
We have seen many castles through our travels abroad but I think this one takes the cake. As it was winter it was a chilly day, the island was covered in mist, the mountains were filled with snow and there was a beam of light directly hitting the lake, photos really don’t do it justice!
The castle has a drawbridge, artwork on site, a chapel, an iron work shop and you can also walk up a platform and around the castle walls which provide insane panoramic views. All of this has you at least spend an hour or so exploring the landmark.
It had then hit lunch time, we were starving and took a peak at the restaurant menu in the castle. Ofcourse this came with a high price tag and we were on a budget so we gave it a miss however would definitely recommend eating here if you can afford to splurge out on a meal!
Lake Bled Christmas Market/Lunch Spot: Leaving the Castle we headed back down to the ‘touristy’ spot of the lake/ the heart of Lake Bled where the Christmas Markets were in full swing. These run from Nov 20th – Jan 4th each year. Music playing, food cooking, even a stage getting all set up for music, seems this place knows how to put on a Christmas celebration! Along with this they also have a life-sized nativity set, a supersized Christmas chair under the huge Christmas Tree and lot’s of traditional Christmas stalls. We settled for a traditional German hot dog for lunch and ate it on the tables which had been set up with toasty fire pits and blankets bliss!
While you are here get a snap with the love heart that overlooks onto the river with the church and castle in the background.
Lake Bled Dinner Spot: Head to Park Cafe Terrace for a night cap and to try the famous Lake Bled Cream Cake which is an absolute must try. The restaurant also looks over the lake and has man-made ice-rink set up for the Christmas festivities!
Wake up Early! The next morning we woke up early for a walk along the lake at sunrise before packing up the car and hitting the road to Innsbruck!
*If we had more time I would have loved to row out to the Church in the middle of the lake. With it being the middle of winter we were unable to find any boats going out so will definitely be back in summer to do this and have a swim!
Day 3 & 4:
Innsbruck
Drive Time: 4 hours 30 minutes
And just like that, we had crossed the border to Austria – only downside of driving is we didn’t get the stamp in our passport! After a 4 and a half hour drive it was late afternoon and we had finally arrived in Innsbruck, our new home for the next 2 nights.
Accommodation: We stayed at Pension Stoi Budget Guesthouse, this came to a whooping £65 for both nights!! It was budget though, the bathroom was communal but we didn’t mind, the guesthouse was right in the heart of the City so made it very easy for us to get around with just a day and a half to explore.
What we got up to:
Innsbruck Old Town & Christmas Markets – Full of history and architectural gems, this 800 year old town has such a special charm. Discover the pastel coloured houses and the wide cobble stone streets as you explore the town. Filled with cafes, restaurants and famous landmarks like the golden room with the gold-platted copper tiles. We walked through both during the day and the night which offered completely different vibes but equally as beautiful. The Christmas Markets are also set up in this old town so it’s worth the visit at night when it is all lit up with music playing!
Bergisel Ski Jump – Entry comes to €9 and with this you get access to the whole arena where we spent about 40 minutes exploring. It is here you can have a look at the little ski museum, get a snap with the Olympic sign and can even catch a small gondola ride up 47 meters to the Tower Building which offers panoramic views of the city along with the top viewing point of the ski jump itself. The day we arrived was snowy and wet so the views weren’t the best but it was still fun to visit. There is also a restaurant up here which would be beautiful to eat at on a clear night with the charming city views.
Alpine Zoo – Getting to this zoo is an adventure on it’s own. We purchased an Alpenzoo and Hungerburgbahn Pass which you can purchase here for only £12 per person. This includes your parking for the day, gives you return tickets up the funicular from the city to the zoo, your entrance pass into the zoo and also gives you access to the top of the funicular (which I will touch on a little later). As the weather wasn’t in our favour most of the animals were tucked away in there caves/sleeping spots however we still enjoyed spending a couple of hours exploring the zoo – we saw lots of wolves and a grizzly bear!
Innsbruck View Point – With the funicular ticket already purchased, after our visit to the zoo we continued our way up to the viewpoint of Innsbruck. Weather was not helping.. there was snow and fog everywhere, basically a white out. This meant no amazing view point for us. There is however a bar at the top of here so we went inside for an hour and enjoyed a cold beer before returning back down to the city.
Where to eat:
Stiftskeller Restaurant – No matter what you do in Innsbruck you have to eat at this restaurant!!! The place is filled with the Austrian culture allowing yourself to fully immerse in the delicious local cuisine whilst live music is playing, candles are lit and your waiters are even dressed up in their traditional outfits, very cool!
We ordered the Austrian dumplings, Pork Belly and the famous Pork Schnitzel that everyone goes on about over here. It was all delicious and really couldn’t recommend it enough! If you come in summertime make sure you make the most of their outdoor beer garden as well!
For other foodie options, take a stroll through the local markets, so many delicious sights!
Day 5 & 6:
Salzburg
Drive Time: 2 hours
Leaving Innsbruck mid-day we had arrive in Salzburg early afternoon after a short 2 hour drive.
Accommodation: We would be spending Christmas Eve and Christmas Day here so we decided to splash out on a hotel which was a 10 minute drive from the City and came to £205 for the two nights. In hindsight it wasn’t the best accommodation as would have preferred to have stayed somewhere close to the Old Town but luckily we had a car so wasn’t a major issue. Be prepared to pay a bit to stay in Salzburg as it is an absolute tourist destination especially over Christmas!
What we got up to:
There is so much to do in Salzburg and with two full days here we thought it would be the perfect amount of time to explore the famous City of Mozart .. little did we know everything is shut on the 24th December, turns out this is the day they celebrate Christmas. This meant we had nothing to do but walk the town, no shops were open, we managed to find one restaurant thank god as we hadn’t even picked up food from a grocery store so keep this in mind if you plan to be here for Christmas!
The next day.. (our Christmas) we explored the City ticking off:
Salzburg Fortress – Festung Hohensalzburg – You will be able to see this fortress as soon as you enter the city with it being perched on top of a hill which overlooks the Cathedral Square. From the town you can either catch a cable car up to the top or save your funds and walk up which only takes about 10-15 minutes and saves you waiting in line! When you get to the entrance gate it is here you can purchase your tickets which came to €15 each, alternatively you can purchase in advance online here which will also save you a bit and can include the cable car ticket.
Hot Tip: Take cash up to the fortress with you; they didn’t have any eftpos & we didn’t have cash on us so couldn’t have lunch or a drink up there, was guttered!
You can easily spend a few hours exploring the fortress with it offering a complete tour with an audio guide, a magic theatre, the Prince’s chambers, The Castle Museum, The Rainer Museum and The Puppet Museum and lastly the Alm Passage Exhibition. Amongst all of this, the fortress also offers the most incredible panoramic view of the City, worth visiting just for that!
Salzburg Christmas Markets – Looking down from the fortress you could see the livelihood of the charming Christmas Market in all it’s glory – we were so eager to head down and have a late lunch while we walked through. With over 100 stands filled with Christmas Treats and hand made crafts ready for us to throw our money at!
These markets date back to the fifteenth century and run from November to Boxing Day each year so we arrived at the perfect time! It runs through both of the squares with plenty of food, crafts and Christmas ornaments to choose from.
After indulging in a German Hotdog and our favourite mulled wine and churros we had headed into the Cathedral before a walk through the Old Town
Salzburg Cathedral – Next up we walked through the huge seventeeth century Baroque Salzburg Cathedral. Definitely worth a look through, it is no cost and here you can easily see how it is an iconic landmark in the city, stunning with so much attention to detail. *fun fact, Mozart himself was baptised here!
Take a walk down Getreidegasse Street – This is one of Salzburg’s most famous streets and is in the heart of the Old Town. You will find that all the shops have guild signs lining the street, it is a beautiful street to walk down with lots of shopping opps!
Mozarts Childhood Home / Museum – We didn’t have time to go to the museum but you bet we got a photo outside Mozarts Childhood Home. You will find this as you walk down the above street. You can purchase tickets for the museum on arrival which costs €12 each.
What we missed out?
With only having one full day in Salzburg it was a given we would be missing out on a few things – if we/you have that extra day we would have loved of done the following:
– Sound of Music Tour: One of the reasons Salzburg is so famous!
– Mirabell Palace and Gardens: A listed cultural heritage monument in Salzburg, looks absolutely beautiful with the flowers in full bloom!
– Cable Car up to Untersberg Peak: this is about 20 mins out of the city but offers amazing views on a clear day
– Dinner at Augustiner Brausteubl: beer garden with locally brewed beer and local cuisine!
Day 7:
Hallstaat
Drive Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Quite possibly the most charming little town I have been to yet! Even the short 1 hour drive was incredible as we entwined through little villages which were completely snowed over! The town itself is so picture perfect, it’s no wonder it’s Austria’s most instagrammable village!
Accommodation: We were late to the party with booking accommodation for Hallstaat, everything online was either booked out or super expensive so we ended up staying out of town. I really wish we could have stayed here however I aim to be back in summer and can tick that off my travel list then!
What to do here:
The first thing we did here which you also need to do is just take an hour or so out of your day to walk along the lake nd through the old town. The streets are lined with colourful gingerbread like houses with a lot of them perched up along the hillside overlooking the lake which is filled with white swans.. like seriously, how dreamy!!!
Iconic Hallstaat Snap – As you walk along the lake you will find the iconic photo that everyone who visits seems to capture, the one with the city and the church in the background.. this one here.
Nacht’s Polreich – Stop here to warm yourself up with a hot chocolate. Not only is the drink delicious but you get a pretty beautiful view to compliment it. This cafe is located right on the lake with big open bay windows to swan watch like we did.
The Parish Church – This gothic style church dates back to the 12th century and is the iconic church you see in all the images when your google Hallstaat. It’s sitll an active church so worth a pop in to have a look.
The World Heritage Skywalk – Time to play in the snow and see even more amazing views. We purchased cable car tickets which came to 18 euro return, you can purchase here or at their front desk. Once the cable car reaches the top you are officially 360 meters above the town. It is here you can hop onto the viewing platform providing you with panoramic views of the entire town.
Restaurant Rudolfsturn – Enjoy a pint or even something to eat at this local restaurant located in the UNESCO World Heritage Platform right next to the Skywalk. This place gives you the opportunity to eat/drink the local cusisine with a view to remember!
Salt Mines – Now that you have been 360 meters above the Town it’s time to go hundreds of meters underground to experience the famous salt mine.Unfortuantely we missed out on doing this as didn’t have a spare 2.5 hours up our sleeve but if we had been able to we definitely would have! You can purchase tickets for this when you buy your Skywalk Pass to save money! This tour takes you through all the underground tunnels via a train to find out about the 7000-year old history of salt in an ancient salt mine.
Day 8:
Vienna
Drive Time: 3 hours 10 mins
And just like that, we were at the last city of our European Winter Escape – the capital of Austria, Vienna.
Accommodation: We stayed at Ibis Wien Messe which was about a 5-10 min drive out of the city. As the tourist attractions/things to do in Vienna are so spread out we found it quite difficult finding a base to stay at. This place didn’t offer parking which was a pain – definitely recommend finding something more central which has parking as it is very pricey in the capital!
What we got up to:
After researching things to do and see in Vienna we soon realised there was so much and we didn’t even know where to begin so we locked ourselves in for a free walking tour starting in the middle of the city.
Just walking through the City we saw so much and I particularly fell in love with all the Christmas decor that lit up the streets (although it was now past Christmas Day you would never have known). Heres what we saw on our wander:
Stephens Cathedral in Stephansplatz Square – Just to see it from the outside is worth it, let alone walking in. A true symbol of Vienna!
The City Hall Square – This is not only the location of their seated government but also the famous Vienna Christmas Market where we once again indulged in German Hotdogs. What I loved most about this market was the runway ice rink that circled the market. If we weren’t scarce on time we both would have been right in amongst it!
Belvedere Palace – This was a beautiful garden landscape and even had a 2019 sign to bring in the New Year. As we arrived on the 28th December they were in the midst of packing up their Christmas Market which we were absolutely guttered to miss as would have looked so beautiful in the front of the palace. There was also a huge huge line to go into the palace so we ended up giving this a miss, I would advise trying to get in early!
Vienna State Opera – We came here at night and sat outside to watch some first class performances. Ofcourse tickets for the Opera House can be pretty pricey so they set this up for people and have the performance displayed on ahuge projector on the side of the building with outdoor seats set up for the public. It is so incredible!
What we missed:
Looking back at our time in Vienna, although we enjoyed relaxing and just wandering the town doing our own thing I would love to come back and visit all the museums on offer and ofcourse splash out to go to the famous Oprah over a long weekend! A few museums/other things you should add to your Vienna Travel List (which we sadly missed):
– The Hofbrug: Lot’s of history and achitecture – also holds the imperial treasury
– Belevedere Museum: As mentioned, we visited here to have a look but the queue was huge and we didn’t have enough time.
– Schonbrunn Palace: Beautiful gardens and can also see the stunning rooms inside.
– Hundertwasserhaus: The funky, artsy side of Vienna is showcased here with the most famous work of an Austrian / New Zealand artist!
– The Big Wheel / Prater – Check out the City from above and take a turn on the giant ferris wheel located in the park
Goes to show, an extra day in Vienna is well worth it as you can see above, there was quite a bit we missed out on!
Day 9:
Back Home
A four hour drive back to Ljubljana Airport with a five hour wait time for our flight and out road trip had come to an end. Experiencing Austria and Slovenia in Winter and in the midst of the true Christmas Festivities was absolutely magical. Every city featuring it’s own unique celebrations had us in awe every.dam.day. We will most definitely be back to experience it all again .. this time in the summer when we find some more time to escape the hustle and bustle of London Town.
P& J xx
